تکامل لباس زنان شاغل در قرن بیستم

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A woman typing in an office. The calendar on the wall of the office dates this image, taken from a stereoscope card originally titled “Flirtation.” While this is clearly not a real office, British middle-class Victorian women were employed in offices across the late 1800s. The woman wears a very full skirt, apparently with crinoline hoops, which by 1899 were something of an anachronism. The typewriter had been commercially widespread since the mid 1870s.

IMAGE: THE PRINT COLLECTOR/PRINT COLLECTOR/GETTY IMAGES

September 1911

Women in the editorial department of Clement’s Inn, The Strand, London. That week’s edition of ‘Votes for Women’ is being cut and pasted by the young woman volunteers at the ‘making-up table.’ All the woman have long hair tied up in loose buns. Most of the woman wear white blouses and full skirts — two wear neck ties.

IMAGE: MUSEUM OF LONDON/HERITAGE IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES

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Office at the railway works in Horwich, Lancashire, England. During the First World War many male rail workers joined the army, so women were employed in their place, in a variety of roles including blacksmiths, welders and electricians. Most of the women in this office wear white blouses, but the blouses are more closely fitting than in the previous picture. Their hair is still worn up, though now more loosely, and one woman — at the card cabinets — has shoulder-length hair worn down, while another wears long braids. At least two younger women also have white bows in their hair. The woman in the left foreground shows a shorter skirt length and a leather shoe with a golfing-style flap.

IMAGE: SCIENCE AND SOCIETY PICTURE LIBRARY

c. 1920

Women sorting mail at the post office during the Christmas rush in England. The women wear a range of blouses, and the woman front-left wears a cardigan and a set of pearls. Their hair is again worn loosely tied up. The woman front-right wears a striped dress, as we’re starting to see more patterns.

IMAGE: FPG/HULTON ARCHIVE/GETTY IMAGES

c. 1932

Women working on forms for the conversion of the war loan at Government Printing and Stationery Office in Harrow, England. The older women wear their long hair tied up, though a number of the younger women have shorter, shoulder-length hair, some with a permanent wave or “perm.” Several wear over-dresses without sleeves, and one woman, right, has bare arms.

IMAGE: TOPICAL PRESS AGENCY/GETTY IMAGES

۲۸th September 1950

A young woman being interviewed for a job in the Keystone photographic agency offices. Her male interviewer wears a tie and large collar, while holding a cigarette. She still wears her raincoat indoors, under which we can spot her plaid skirt. She has long hair, tied up.

IMAGE: KEYSTONE/GETTY IMAGES

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Women office workers eat boxed lunches in Union Square, San Francisco, California. Their suits are formal, in conservative colours. Their hair is worn short, typically parted at the side. All the women appear to be wearing tan stockings or hose.

IMAGE: B. ANTHONY STEWART/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC/GETTY IMAGES

۱۹۶۰s

An American secretary typing whilst listening to dictation on her headset. She wears a sleeveless blue top and a blue checked skirt. Her hair is sharply cut and worn chin-length in a brushed bob.

IMAGE: H. ARMSTRONG ROBERTS/RETROFILE/GETTY IMAGES

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Administration office at Huntsman House, headquarters of Tetley’s brewers in Leeds, West Yorkshire. Women workers use Sumlock machines, forerunners of the calculator. They wear clothes in a palette of bright colours. Of the 17 women in the picture, four wear pastel yellow, three wear pastel pink, two wear pastel blue. The women have a wide variety of hair styles, most strongly volumized with hairspray.

IMAGE: PAUL WALTERS WORLDWIDE PHOTOGRAPHY LTD./HERITAGE IMAGES/GETTY IMAGES

۱۱th November 1970

Women operators man computers at Eastern Airlines’ reservations center in Miami, Florida. The woman in the centre-front wears a brightly striped top and very naturally styled hair, held loosely in a clip. The woman to the left wears a yellow cotton top and shoes. Cardigans are loosely flung over the backs of their chairs.

IMAGE: BRUCE DALE/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC/GETTY IMAGES

April 1987

Belgian-born American fashion designer Diane Von Furstenberg in her studio. Furstenberg has very strong makeup, including gloss lipstick. She wears large hoop earrings and oversized bracelets and rings. She dresses in black, accented with a white pocket handkerchief on her chest.

IMAGE: ROSE HARTMAN/ARCHIVE PHOTOS/GETTY IMAGES

۵th February 1989

An office worker during the launch of Sky TV in London. She wears a green double-breasted jacket, possibly part of a uniform. Her hair is feathered in layers. In the background another woman wears a similar jacket. Her hair is bleached and waved over large earrings.

IMAGE: GEORGES DE KEERLE/GETTY IMAGES

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Sue Julian-Ottie, a collections system data manager, using a database computer. Her hair is long and natural, with side-swept bangs. She wears a dark, striped suit jacket.

IMAGE: SSPL/GETTY IMAGES

۵th July 1999

A woman in a German call centre. She wears a scoop-neck, snug, short-sleeved top with a blue floral pattern. The neckline of the top is edged with lace, as are its sleeves. Although the overall garment design implies a connection to Victorian and Edwardian women’s wear, as seen in the first pictures in this piece, it actually has little in common with women’s garments of a hundred years before. This woman has a thumb ring and layered ‘choker’ necklaces.

IMAGE: ULRICH BAUMGARTEN VIA GETTY IMAGES

۵th July 1999

Woman in a call center in Germany. Her highlighted hair is worn back in a low messy bun. She wears very light-coloured lipstick, a black T-shirt with a denim jacket on the back of her chair. A tattoo encircles her right upper arm.

IMAGE: ULRICH BAUMGARTEN / GETTY IMAGES